Gravel crank length: what actually changes when you go shorter

By Crankworthy · Published · Updated

Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm cranks shortens the lever by 4.35%, but it does not cost you power: the foot travels a 47.1 mm shorter circle each revolution, and cadence rises to match. What it does change is the fit — raise the saddle 7.5 mm to keep the same leg extension, expect roughly 15 mm more room at the top of the stroke, and reset the crank length in your power meter or it will over-report by about 4.5%.

The geometry, worked out

Two numbers explain most of the argument: the lever gets 4.35% shorter, and the pedal circle gets 47.1 mm smaller. The second is why the first does not cost you anything.

Power is force times the speed the pedal travels. Shorten the crank and the same force produces 4.35% less torque, but the pedal also covers less distance per revolution: 1036.7 mm on a 165 mm crank against 1083.8 mm on a 172.5 mm crank. Hold your cadence and foot speed drops; let cadence rise about 4.5% and foot speed, and therefore power, is back where it started.

Everything else follows from the 7.5 mm. The pedal at the bottom of the stroke sits 7.5 mm higher relative to the bottom bracket, so the saddle goes up 7.5 mm to keep the same leg extension. At the top of the stroke those two changes add rather than cancel: the saddle is 7.5 mm higher and the pedal 7.5 mm lower, so there is about 15 mm more distance between hip and pedal, and the knee and hip are less closed at the top.

The numbers

The geometry below is arithmetic you can check. The physiology is from a 2025 crossover trial in 28 trained male cyclists [1].

Lever reduction
(172.5 − 165) ÷ 172.5 = 4.35% shorter moment arm.
Pedal circle
1083.8 mm at 172.5 mm, 1036.7 mm at 165 mm — 47.1 mm less travel per revolution.
Cadence to match
About 4.5% more — roughly 90 rpm becomes 94 rpm for the same foot speed and the same power.
Saddle height
Up 7.5 mm, to keep leg extension at the bottom of the stroke unchanged.
Room at the top of the stroke
About 15 mm more hip-to-pedal distance — the saddle rise and the lower pedal add together.
Ground clearance
7.5 mm more at the bottom of the stroke. Straightforwardly fewer pedal strikes.
Power meter error if you forget
Crank length is a constant in the power calculation. Leave it set to 172.5 mm while riding 165 mm and readings run 4.55% high — an actual 250 W reports as 261 W.

What the research shows — and what it does not

A 2025 randomised crossover trial found no significant difference in oxygen cost, cycling economy, heart rate or 6-second sprint power across 165, 170 and 175 mm cranks. The one clear difference was how hard the effort felt 1.

At 60% of VO2max for 20 minutes, perceived exertion came out at 3.21 on 165 mm against 4.50 on 175 mm (p < 0.001), while oxygen consumption (42.64 vs 43.29 ml/kg/min) and heart rate (146.7 vs 148.7 bpm) were statistically indistinguishable. Sprint power was flat too: 13.23 vs 13.18 W/kg 1.

Two caveats the summaries usually drop. First, 172.5 mm was never tested — the trial ran 165, 170 and 175 mm, and 165 vs 170 was NOT significant (p = 0.25). The honest reading is that a big jump down from 175 mm changes how the effort feels; a small one from 172.5 mm to 170 mm probably does not. Second, the participants were 28 trained male cyclists, so it says nothing directly about untrained riders or about women.

That is still a useful result, because it kills the assumption shorter cranks cost power. It just does not make 165 mm universally correct, and it is not a medical finding. If you have knee or hip pain, that is a conversation with a bike fitter or a clinician, not a part you can buy your way out of.

What the wider literature adds

The 2025 trial is not alone. Two decades of work point the same way: crank length is a weak lever on power, because what sets power is how fast the pedal travels, not how long the arm is.

Martin and Spirduso tested maximal cycling power across a wide span of crank lengths and concluded that pedalling rate and pedal speed are what determine maximal power, with crank length itself a minor term 2. McDaniel and colleagues reached the equivalent conclusion for submaximal riding: metabolic cost tracks mechanical power and pedal speed 3. That is the mechanism behind the cadence compensation — match foot speed and you have matched the demand.

Barratt and colleagues looked underneath the total and found the joint-level contributions do shift with crank length even when the total does not 4, which is the measurable version of what riders describe as a different feel rather than a different ceiling. Ferrer-Roca and colleagues tested SMALL changes in crank length and found gross efficiency and pedalling technique barely moved 5 — more support for treating 172.5 mm to 170 mm as a non-event and 175 mm to 165 mm as the change worth making.

On the generalisability gap: Macdermid and Edwards ran crank length on well-trained female cross-country mountain bikers 6, which is the population the 2025 trial did not cover. Worth reading if you are sizing cranks for a rider the male-only studies do not describe.

Fitting shorter cranks properly

Swapping the arms alone changes your position. These come with it.

  1. 1

    Raise the saddle by the difference

    Exactly the amount the crank shortened — 7.5 mm going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm. This keeps leg extension at the bottom of the stroke where it was.

  2. 2

    Nudge the saddle forward 2–3 mm

    A seat tube is angled back, so raising the saddle also moves it rearward. A couple of millimetres forward on the rails restores your position over the pedals.

  3. 3

    Check the bar height

    The saddle went up, so the drop to the bar grew. Add 5–7.5 mm of spacers to keep the torso angle you had — or leave it, if more drop is what you were after and the opened hip angle now allows it.

  4. 4

    Consider two fewer teeth on the chainring

    The shorter lever is felt most when grinding a steep pitch at low cadence. Dropping from 42T to 40T, or 40T to 38T, hands that back to the gearing and keeps you spinning.

  5. 5

    Update the power meter, then give it two weeks

    Set the new crank length before the first ride. Expect the new pedal circle to feel odd for a handful of rides; keep the intensity moderate while your cadence resets.

Why gravel riders care more than road riders

Two of the effects are worth more off-road than on it: ground clearance and toe overlap.

The pedal sits 7.5 mm higher at the bottom of the stroke, which is the difference between clearing a rock mid-corner and not. On terrain where you are pedalling through ruts and over roots, that margin gets used constantly.

Toe overlap is the other one. A 165 mm crank puts the pedal 7.5 mm further back at the forward position, which on a small or medium frame running a 45 mm-plus tyre can be the difference between your shoe catching the front tyre in a tight turn and not. Both are geometry, not physiology — they apply whatever the research says about power.

Torque for the crank swap

Manufacturer figures, with the document each came from. Confirm against the manual for your exact crank.

SystemTorqueToolSource
SRAM DUB (crank arm bolt)54 N·m (478 in-lb)read in the manual8 mm hex bit socketSRAM MTB Cranksets and Bottom Brackets user manual, p.8
Shimano Hollowtech II (left arm pinch bolts)12–14 N·mconfirm in your model’s manual5 mm hex, tightened alternately in stagesShimano Dealer’s Manual DM-MBFC001

Cranksets in the catalog, by recorded arm length

Crank length is recorded per crankset in our catalog. Most models are sold in several lengths — check the listing for the one you want before ordering.

What this job needs that we don’t stock

Named so you can source them elsewhere — we would rather say this than point you at a product that is not the right one for the job.

  • Gravel-specific 165 mm cranksets on the SRAM 8-bolt road interface. The 165 mm crank we stock is a mountain Cinch crank; the road and gravel equivalents are not in the catalog.
  • Crank-length-specific stock. Our catalog records one length per entry, so it cannot yet tell you which lengths a given model is actually sold in.

References

  1. 1.Li J. et al. (2025), Effects of crank length on cycling efficiency, sprint performance, and perceived fatigue in high-level amateur road cyclists. Journal of Exercise Science & Fitness 23(2), 102–111
  2. 2.Martin J.C. & Spirduso W.W. (2001), Determinants of maximal cycling power: crank length, pedaling rate and pedal speed. Eur J Appl Physiol 84(5), 413–418
  3. 3.McDaniel J., Durstine J.L., Hand G.A. & Martin J.C. (2002), Determinants of metabolic cost during submaximal cycling. J Appl Physiol 93(3), 823–828
  4. 4.Barratt P.R., Korff T., Elmer S.J. & Martin J.C. (2011), Effect of crank length on joint-specific power during maximal cycling. Med Sci Sports Exerc 43(9), 1689–1697
  5. 5.Ferrer-Roca V. et al. (2017), Acute effects of small changes in crank length on gross efficiency and pedalling technique during submaximal cycling. J Sports Sci 35(14), 1328–1335
  6. 6.Macdermid P.W. & Edwards A.M. (2010), Influence of crank length on cycle ergometry performance of well-trained female cross-country mountain bike athletes. Eur J Appl Physiol 108(1), 177–182

Related

Part of the bike upgrade and compatibility guide.

Not sure this fits your bike?

Describe your bike in plain language and Crankworthy works out what it currently has, which upgrades actually fit, and the full parts and tools list — checked component by component.

Check compatibility for your bike